I printed the pattern I wanted to use (located on the Plans page) then covered the pattern with 2" clear packing tape to keep the paper from deteriorating from repeated cooling baths in the water bucket. Then I cut the pattern out.
     I started with a piece of 6" X 12" 1/4" steel plate of mild steel - I wanted a beefy material, one that would suit the dimensions of the gun it would be attached to. Since I wouldn't be using the entire 6" width of the plate, I placed the template on the plate to see what would not be needed, then used a fiber cutoff wheel on my table saw and cut away two 3/8" X 12" strips to make stock for the trip lever. This took a long time with countless dips in the water bucket.
     I gave the 1/4" steel plate a coat of aerosol spray contact cement and aligned the pattern with an edge - one line I would not have to cut.
    Before you start cutting, punch the handle rod hole center points (A) so you can get accurate drill holes later, and just as important, should your paper template come off you will have reference points to align another one.

    The first pattern I cut in one piece, this would be the top bracket, and the second I cut in half which gave me more angles of attack on cutting the pieces out. I tried a hack saw and a saber saw, then finally settled on a Sawsall.

     It was time consuming, and because I stayed away from the lines so as not to risk having to start over on this tedious process, it required a lot of grinding. This is not an optimal cutting tool for this particular application, but it's what I had. It beats the heck out of a hack saw.
     If you know someone at a machine shop who can cut the brackets, it will save a lot of time, but I did it the hard way and it can be done. Patience!

    For the inside corners I drilled rows of holes - a Sawzall does not do tight curves in thick metal. I cut a lot of angles to get as close as I could safely get to the lines, then bent the pieces so they broke free. It looked like a ragged mess at one point, but a little patience and finally the pieces are cut, and look pretty good. I used files and emery cloth to sand the edges smooth. Drill the bolt holes. The bolt holes for the top bracket are 1/4", but the bottom brackets get tapped for 1/4" threaded rod, so use a 13/64" drill bit.
NOTE: In hindsight, a 10" fiber blade mounted on a table saw is best for removing large areas.

TIP: When I buy a new flat file, I always grind one edge smooth. This allows me to work in corners on only one surface at a time.

I drilled a hole in the center of the mounting tab (1), then marked, drilled and tapped a hole in the center/top of the backplate, being certain that the front of the main leg of the top bracket (marked with a blue line here) aligned flush with the back surface of the backplate. I installed a buttonhead screw, ground the head off, and set the screw with a small chisel cut.
     Using the single screw as a pivot point, I squared the bracket with the backplate (I did this while the backplate was in the gun). I then welded the bottom edge of the bracket to the backplate (2) since I could think of no reason I would ever want to remove the bracket. You can use two buttonhead screws instead of welding. I wanted the top bracket rock solid.
NOTE: on the ANM2 the brackets are riveted to angles. See photo at bottom of page.

    With the top bracket in place I lined up the holes in the bottom brackets. Original handles were 4". If you plan to use my resin handles, do not exceed this.
     I welded the mounting leg onto the bracket, making certain to get good penetration on the small weld. Let the weld cool slowly. If you dip it in water it will temper the joint and increase the possibility of it breaking. You can also use section of angle iron.

Don't forget the bottom brackets get tapped for 1/4" threaded rod, so use a 13/64" drill bit.
Note: If you are making the the main spanner screws by turning a long carriage bolt on a lathe, you don't need to tap the bottom brackets. Actually, you don't need to tap them anyway - I chose to.