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LINK CHUTE FOR THE 1919A4
    Sometime ago I set out to build a link chute for my pedestal mount. It's an older guy thing, not being able to bend down without making the rattling and grinding sounds one usually associates with an old refrigerator. The only thing I was able to find on the market was the occasional M37 link chute. So I designed one which worked great, and it clamped right to the receiver witout modification to the gun.
    If only I had tried out the cardboard mockup while the gun was in the mount, I would have discovered that the thing would not fit on the gun when it was in the mount. I pointed my finger at my head and pulled an imaginary trigger. It was yet another of the many paperweights I had made in order to bring you build sites that produce something that actually works.

M37 link chute

The first link chute
    Having learned from my mistake, and still in need of a link chute, I decided to have another go at it. This new one fits, and works great. I arraigned the brackets to make use of the mounting points I had to work with. You always have the pintle bolt. If you have a safety bar on your 1919, as I have, then you have a convenient second mounting point. If you don't have a bar, then you can find another point. If your right rear cartridge stop in held on with a button head screw, you can use that. If you have a carriage on your mount, you can connect the chute to the frame. I have an elevation device on mine, so that was not a good option. If you don't mind tapping a couple of small 10-24 holes in your RSP, then simple wings will give a very clean look.
Most images can be enlarged.

This is the new link chute, assembled.

The three parts making up the assembly.


A rear view with bag attached.


A closer shot. The belt feed slide rides above the the long guide .


I think this is an old bank bag. It has four metal eyelets. The front holes are fed over the front of the rods until the back ones can be slid over the rear pins, then the front ones are stretched over the front bends. Easy on & off. I guess a cloth ammo belt could be fed into the chute, in which case the bag becomes a laundry hamper.

I will have the chute parked when I redo the entire gun, M2 tripod, etc.

You can make any type of bag holder. I don't really know why I designed mine the way I did. It seemed to suit the bag I had. Something with a draw string would be trimmer.
    The joints are tacked at the stress points. Welding 22 Ga. sheet is a delicate operation. Go slow - one hit with the welder set too high and a section of plate will simply vanish. When you can, back up the place to be welded with a piece of metal to act as a heat sink. I
used two 10-24 button head screws to hold things together.

I can't say enough about making a mockup out of the template. The template is close, but you will need to make adjustments where the chute meets the feedway. Work the top cover and make certain the chute will not interfere with anything.

These are links to the templates. Click on an image to get the full sized template. Right-click and save to your hard drive and use Windows Paint (in Accessories) to print it. I didn't use dimensions because you would get crazy trying make this thing using anything but a template. I sprayed contact cement on both template and sheet metal put them together, and cut away with a saber saw.

The backplate and brackets are 16 Ga.
sheet metal and the housing is 22 Ga.

Side cutaway

The guide that fits into the gun's feedway will need to be strengthened so that it does not flop down during firing and obstruct the feedway. If you look at the photo of the M37 link chute at the top of the page, you can see that the originals had a ridge running along the guide, so that's what I did.

The tools at left are crude, but served the purpose.

I suggest you practice this next move on a piece of scrap first to get the hang of it.

As shown n the photo, above, left, I cut a shallow slot in a piece of scrap 1/8" x 3/4" x 1 1/4" flat bar stock using a fiber blade on my table saw. I set the blade about 1/8" above the bed and fed the stock along the fence. I used the same fiber blade to cut a deeper notch into a 3 1/2" length of 3/8" square bar stock. The small rod is a piece of shank from a broken 3/32" drill bit. The ridge does not go all the way to the end, so I rounded the drill bit shank at both ends to give it a smooth contour.

I put the flat bar on the top, with the drill shank on the bottom, opposite, taped the group together as in A, then clamped it in a blacksmith's pole vise. Pressing rather than hammering will give a smoother impression. Keep everything straight! You will end up with a shape like the one shown in fig B. Next, I laid the thing, bar side down, on a steel block, then used the square bar stock (with the groove cut in the end) and a small hammer to flatten back the sheet along the ridge, C.

There's not much more I can tell you. Once you have made the mockup and test fitted it, everything will begin to make sense. The offset for the brackets will depend on what anchor points you choose. There is no point in my detailing the brackets I used as I have a home made pedestal mount. Good luck!

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